Halloween Costume ideas 2015
Articles by "watercolor"
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I'm always interested to learn what supplies other illustrators swear by.  Sometimes seeing someone else's tried and tested tools inspires me to try something new.  So, I thought I'd show you my favorite supplies for drawing, inking, and painting.

For drawing & inking:

-My favorite pencils are Faber Castell 9000 in HB.  I'm sure there are nicer pencils out there (some of my grad school friends swore by these Tombow pencils, and I know lots of illustrators who love the Blackwing), but for some reason that I can't quite put my finger on, I'm partial to Faber Castell.

-I've had my Alvin Glass Inkwell sharpener for about ten years and it's still going strong.

-I usually buy whichever kneaded eraser happens to be on sale, but I'm sort of partial to this one.

-My trusty green tape measure has been in my life for a long time and I sort of feel weirdly attached to it.  I use it to measure out the size of each illustration onto my paper and while I've used other tape measures none of them has been quite as comforting as Little Green.  Also, I'm pretty sure Little Green is instilled with luckiness, which is maybe why I'm so fond of her.  (Do you have superstitious attachment to any of your supplies?)

-My ink of choice is FW acrylic ink.  It comes in lots of different colors (I mostly use sepia and occasionally white) and I like its fluidity.  I pour the ink into a wide mouth, tight sealing container, so it's easier to dip my pen into.  Also, if I want to thicken the ink slightly I leave the lid of the ink container open for awhile (overnight), and alternatively, to thin the ink I just add a little water.  Once acrylic ink is completely dry it's water fast which means that my watercolor paint doesn't affect my ink lines.

-I've experimented with lots of different pens and the one that works best for me is the Speedball Standard Pen Holder with a #512 nib.  I think pens and different pen nibs are highly personal and if you're interested in using a dip pen I encourage you to experiment with as many nibs as possible until you find one that suits you.

For painting:

-My favorite brushes are short-handled round brushes.  Investing in a good quality large brush for big, loose washes was sort of life changing.  Adding a good wash brush to my arsenal made covering large areas of paper (for sky, water, etc) suddenly fun and free instead of terrifying.  For the rest of my painting I use Winsor & Newton Cotman round brushes in sizes 3, 5, and 10.

-For watercolor paints I prefer Holbein and Winsor & Newton Professional grade.  My color palette varies a bit from image to image, but the colors pictured above are the ones I use most often.

-I've had my paint palette for a long time and by now it feels like an old friend. Here's one that's similar.

-It isn't included in the photo, but I also rely heavily on Scmincke masking fluid.  Its squeeze tube makes applying it fairly easy, and as long as you remove it gently and within 24 hours of application it comes off easily and without damaging the paper.  (I use the colorless version.)

-I always have two jars of water while I'm painting and I change the water often (pretty much anytime I switch to a new color) to keep my colors from becoming muddy.  I also keep a roll of paper towels at hand and use a paper towel to soak excess paint off my brush or from the paper.

Paper and preparation:

-My paper of choice is Arches 140 lb. hot press in bright white.  Although, lately I've been experimenting with other brands and with cold press papers.  (Hot press paper has a smoother finish and cold press papers are more textured.)

-In order to achieve a stable surface that won't buckle under very wet watercolor washes I stretch my watercolor paper by soaking it in water and then stapling it onto 1/2 inch Gatorfoam Board.  I used to use plywood, but I prefer gator board because it's light weight but sturdy.  (Usually a single row of staples is sufficient, but because I live in the very dry Colorado mountains I use a double row of staples on large paintings otherwise the paper dries so tightly that the staples pull out.)

-A note about stretching paper:  I stretch my paper AFTER I've drawn and inked my image.  As mentioned above, once the acrylic ink is dry it doesn't budge so there's no danger in soaking my inked drawings.  Stretching seems to slightly change the texture of the paper which makes the ink lines a bit more difficult to apply, which is why I stretch the paper after the drawing is complete.

Additional Miscellaneous supplies:

-I'm a huge fan of post-it notes and use them for to-do lists, to keep track of deadlines, and to put notes about illustrations on my drawing table.

-I use masking tape and bull dog clips to attach reference material to my drawing table.

-Plastic containers make for handy storage of paints and other supplies.

-I use the occasional colored pencil and love experimenting with water-soluble graphite.


I hope you found some inspiration here!  I'd love to hear about your favorite supplies!

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Brooke Boynton Hughes lives in Colorado's Rocky Mountains where she illustrates children's books.  To see more of her work please visit www.BrookeBoyntonHughes.com

I recently had an art director ask me if I had any mice in my portfolio. Nope! The only mice in my portfolio at the time were microscopic. Cue mouse sketches!
Copyright Jen Betton 2015
I drew up a bunch of sketches, both to figure out ideas and compositions, but also to get used to mousey anatomy. I decided to develop this one into a full-color piece. 

For the color studies I knew I wanted something warm and sunset-feeling (partially because I'd been doing a lot of cold paintings – tons of night and underwater scenes). I collected some color palette images I liked on Pinterest, and did a few color studies.

Copyright Jen Betton 2015
The general palette didn't change much, but I experimented with values – middle study is dark mice against a light background, bottom is dark background (to better show the rim lighting), and top is in between. It really helps me think about composition to remember it is just an arrangement of light and dark shapes – so each shape is either light on dark or dark on light. I decided to go with the center study.

Copyright Jen Betton 2015
Process is my friend – I really love approaching a finish with confidence because I know what colors and values I'm using, and I have a refined drawing for a foundation and good reference to look at while I paint. I know lots of other people who don't work this way, but for me, it makes everything smoother and faster. 

For more info about color, see my blog series here.

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Jen Betton illustrates and writes for children. You can see more of Jen Betton's mousey sketches here www.facebook.com/jenbettonillustration

More of her work is at these locations online:
Twitter: @jenbetton

A lot of watercolor artists have a texture problem – when the painting is scanned, all that lovely texture that grabs the paint also grabs the light from the scanner, and it can be overly noticeable in light areas of the image. So what are some ways to soften or eliminate this texture? 

Some of the KidLitArtists were discussing the different ways they address this issue, and I've compiled their methods here, along with links to tutorials on other sites. 

1. Scanning Trick
You scan your image twice, the second time flipping the image 180 degrees on the scanner bed. Then you use Photoshop's Auto Align feature to perfectly line up the two images (this feature is in CS3 and all later versions, it's found under Edit>Auto Align Layers). You can then adjust the opacity of the top layer until you have a nice blend between the two – and the opposite direction to the shadows means they sort of cancel each other out. You can also use layer masks to make more detailed adjustments to the layers.
Image by Elizabeth Baddeley
Tutorial here: http://ebaddeley.com/news/2013/7/9/how-to-scanning-cold-press-watercolor-paper

Good for small paintings that fit entirely on the scanner (unless you have the patience to scan your image in multiple pieces, merge them, and then do it again at 180 degrees!) and paintings that don't have a lot of fine lines and details that might not align perfectly.

2. Smart Blur Filter
For this technique, use the Smart Blur Filter (found under Filter>Blur>Smart Blur), and adjust the settings till you find the right ones to maintain a crisp image while blurring out the texture. (I personally like to duplicate the layer prior to using any filters, and then mixing the two using opacity settings and/or layer masks).
By Gordon and Susan Pritchard


I haven't used this one much myself, but I think it will probably work best when you have clearly defined edges, and a flat background. 

The following two methods basically use different selection methods to isolate the background, and then either delete it, or (my preference) use a layer mask to hide it.

3. Channel Mask 
This one removes the background entirely and makes use of the Channels Palette (open it with Window>Channels). You compare the separate channels till you find the one with the closest match to the information you want to select, then you duplicate that channel and use it to select that part of the image. Then Select>Inverse and delete the background. The tutorial goes through this technique in much more detail. 
This one is good for when you want a white or transparent background, or if you want to replace the background with a different image. The tutorial includes a variety of other selection techniques. 

4. Color Range

Andy Musser uses the Color Range feature in Photoshop to make a selection based on color, and then remove the background:. 

Use Select>Color Range. Your cursor should be an eye dropper, click on the color you want to remove. To add more colors, or shades of the original color, select the “Eyedroper +” tool (in the Color Range controls) and click on them. The black and white image will show your selection, white is selected and black is unselected. 

After creating the selection with Color Range, using the “Refine Edge” controls will refine the selection. Then invert the selection and use a layer mask to remove it.

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Jen Betton writes and illustrates for children. 
You can find her work at www.jenbetton.com
@jenbetton on Twitter

At the recent SCBWI LA Summer conference there was a lot of discussion about where a strong authorial or illustrative voice comes from. Great artists don't find their voice in a vacuum -- they study the masters that came before them. I loved hearing that Hunter S.Thompson re-typed 'The Great Gatsby' in its entirety to feel what it's like to write a great novel. Art Students are required to sit in museums and sketch off the work of painters and sculptors.

Study of Ernest Shepard, india ink

A similar practice that I use involves creating copies of illustrations that I love, using my own ink and watercolor process. Using the materials that I feel committed to gives me a chance to feel what it's like to make the artist's image with the marks of my own hand. I find this to be an incredibly clarifying (as well as meditative) process. I get glimpses of an elevated voice that I'm always reaching for.

Study of Lisbeth Zwerger, india ink and watercolor

Study of Lisbeth Zwerger, ink and watercolor

Study of Rebecca Dautremer, india ink and watercolor (special thanks to Lisa Anchin for introducing Rebecca's beautiful work to me)

It should go without saying that these are for study purposes only -- you cannot sell them, or claim that these works are yours (don't display them in your portfolio).

I hope you decide to try this process out and learn something for yourself!

~Eliza Wheeler
Author/Illustrator of NYT Bestseller 'Miss Maples Seeds'
Illustrator of Holly Black's Newbery Honor book, 'Doll Bones'
Illustrator of 'The Grudge Keeper', by Mara Rockliff
See her work online at Wheelerstudio.com

Before I begin developing the illustrations for a picture-book scene, I like to get to know my characters first, so I start with character sketching and development. 




Once I feel I know my characters well, I start laying out the pages as thumbnail sketches -- 2" large rough compositional sketches. 


I usually enlarge the thumbnail sketches to full size by scanning it, blowing it up in photoshop, and printing it out, and then use tracing paper to refine the sketch on top. Once the sketch is refined, I use a light pad to retrace the sketch onto Arches Coldpress 140 lb watercolor paper. 


I ink the drawing with dip pens and India ink. Then I stretch the paper by soaking the drawing in water for about 10 minutes, and staple it onto a plywood board.


If time allows, I sometimes scan in the inked drawing, before stretching it, to print out copies for tone and color studies (but if the deadline is too tight I often have to skip this step). 


The last step is laying down the color in a series of washes, using watercolors (I use a variety of brands: M. Graham, Winsor & Newton, and Holbein). 


The last stage usually takes a lot of standing and staring; adding washes bit by bit until it feels finished. Once all the artwork is finished for the book, I package it up and ship it off to the publisher for scanning. 

It's such a magical moment to see it come out a year later all put together in the final printed book!



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
MISS MAPLE’S SEEDS,
by Eliza Wheeler (Nancy Paulsen/Penguin Books)

About the book:
Miss Maple gathers lost seeds that haven’t yet found a place to sprout. She takes them on field trips to explore places to grow. In her cozy maple tree house, she nurtures them; keeping them safe and warm until it’s time for them to find roots of their own, and grow into the magnificent plants they’re destined to become.
Buy ‘Miss Maple’s Seeds’ HERE
All illustrations copyright Eliza Wheeler, www.wheelerstudio.com







the SCWBI flyer announcing the workshop - yay!
This September, I had the chance to take part in a fantastic SCBWI weekend workshop with Lisbeth Zwerger. Together with 9 other illustrators we spent the weekend at beautiful Lake Constance, working on illustrations while discussing books, ideas, process, watercolour techniques, mistakes and how to work with them. 2 days were so short,  but it was an amazing experience and my head was full of impressions and inspiration when I returned home.

Here are a few things that stayed with me especially:

1. The devil is in the detail.

Saturday we started off with looking at everybody’s favorite children’s books, discussing what we liked about them, where we saw problems. Lisbeth shared with us her great perception for detail, pointing out that small things like the shape of a window can complete the overall style of a house, or disturb it. On the other hand, sometimes details like the extreme curl of a foot to show discomfort can go a bit overboard.

discussing our favorite children's books

2. Does the way you are composing a scene suit/support the story you want to tell?

In the late morning we started taking out our sketches and prepared for painting. Lisbeth sat down with each of us individually and discussed our idea.

Lisbeth Zwerger discussing color palette choices with Maria Bogade...

...and composition with Sanne Dufft.

She liked my sketch, but suggested I take a step back and think about whether my approach with a very designed ornamental line really suited the scene I wanted to portray. This pushed me to go back to „start“, rethink my idea and plan for execution, and try something else that I felt really supported the mood and story of the scene I had chosen.

my original sketch

3. Be brave.

I know, that’s not a new one. But taking your painting and putting it under the shower? I think that’s a new kind of brave. Lisbeth’s approach to painting is very matter of fact, if it doesn’t work, try something new. Take the paint off, start over. She encouraged us to play, to find new ways to make the paint do what we want it to do. For example, Sanne Dufft ended up with a beautiful almost impressionistic painting of a water surface, something I never thought watercolour could do.

We all finished our paintings and sent them to Lisbeth after the weekend, and got great final feedback from her. Here is my piece after the weekend:

the final painting

Not only did I learn a lot from Lisbeth Zwerger this weekend, but it was so inspiring to work in one room with this amazing group of illustrators, see everybody’s work, discuss process, ideas, and learn from each other’s mistakes and successes.

working on our illustrations

Thank you Maria Bogade for organizing it, thank you SCBWI for making it possible, and thank you Lisbeth and to all the illustrators who were there, it was fantastic!

Happy holidays everybody!

the first snow...
(illustration for "Wie der Weihnachtsbaum in die Welt kam" by Astrid Fritz)

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Andrea Offermann recently illustrated  Troon Harrison's "Der Eisdrache" and Kate Milford’s „The Broken Lands“. You can see her work at www.andreaoffermann.com.





My process always begins with thumbnails. Usually I do a bunch of them, very small and very rough. When I find one that works well for the story and is visually interesting, then I'll blow it up a little bit and work out the value structure.
Thumbnail
Value study
Then I started collecting reference and working on a finished sketch. This included reference for the moon, clouds, night scenes, hot air balloons, kids, rope ladders, cities from above... in total I accumulated about 140 images for reference. I didn't use all of them, but the complexity of the scene and my inability to photograph the scene myself meant I collected a lot of images to work from.

I also used kneaded eraser to create a little mock-up of the kids in the balloon basket, to see what the lighting looked like. 
Kneaded eraser kids, in a cup – my no-frills maquette. 
I created the drawing on a number of different sheets of tracing paper, the kids and balloon separate from the city so I could move them around in photoshop and composite them.

I used a curved 3 pt perspective on the city – headache!!!
Finished drawing
Next step is color studies. 


After that I printed the drawing onto thin 500 strathmore board, and started to paint (I usually use the thick strathmore illustration board and transfer the drawing with graphite paper, but the city was detailed enough I decided to try printing it on a thinner sheet).

I started painting with a light colored watercolor wash to seal the drawing and provide a base tone. Sometimes I'll also paint some base values as well – as I did here, on the buildings. 


Then I'll usually start with the part of the painting that would be the easiest to screw up, so that if something goes wrong I can start over quickly. In this case, I needed to paint the big, loose wash that would cover the whole painting and define the sky. I would also need to lift the moon out of the wash before it dried, in order to keep it light. I could have used frisket, but I didn't want to risk getting a really crisp edge on the moon.


I put down the wash very loosely, very wet, with a wide, flat brush. I added splatters of purple and green with a toothbrush, light spots with a water bottle, and I lifted the moon out of the wash with a brush and a paper towel. 


Then I moved on to painting the town, basket, and kids. 


And added some colored pencil in the light areas. 


And a little photoshop, and done!



You can see more of Jen Betton's work at her website: www.jenbetton.com
and more process work on her blog at www.jenbetton.blogspot.com
Twitter: @jenbetton

MKRdezign

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